helix66
Member
Reged: 07/09/01
Posts: 5821
Loc: Hermosa Beach, CA
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My rust bucket has some rust at the top of the windshield and it's leaking inside now and then. I pulled out that black strip that seems to hold the top in place and started sanding the rust at the roof and on the face of the channel in two places, then I treated it with an industrial rust converter called Ospho. I was originally thinking of using fiberglass body filler but now I'm thinking of going ghetto and getting some marine grade caulk and fill the holes and then the channel and replace the strip. How awful is this? This vehicle has terminal rust all over and as soon as I can will be replaced. Since the recession is officially over I'm hoping within a year!
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Edited by helix66 (11/02/09 01:13 PM)
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Alex
Pooh-Bah
Reged: 11/01/05
Posts: 1817
Loc: Maryland/Pa line
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i vote JB weld and a putty knife with a fast hand.
sand
then repeat the jbweld to get the right shape
then touch up paint.
but thats just my preference.
im sure it will turn out great.
 
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Flipflopped and ready to rock
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helix66
Member
Reged: 07/09/01
Posts: 5821
Loc: Hermosa Beach, CA
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Why JB weld over body filler??
Is JB sandable?
Either way I still have the problem of getting enough material inside the holes to give it some strength so it doesn't pop out.
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Alex
Pooh-Bah
Reged: 11/01/05
Posts: 1817
Loc: Maryland/Pa line
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JB weld has a high metal content then other epoxys. it does need time to cure but it makes an stiff filler and doesn't come off easily. it does cost a little more but is well worth the ease of use. just make sure to clean the area and blow away small particles that you cant wipe away.
however,
the right repair is body filler ( im not retarded). but JB weld is easy to use and most people are comfortable with the product. it sands and paints just as easy if not.. easier then bondo. it is a little more runny and easier to get into tight areas.
another alternative is a marine grade epoxy.
but i guess it all hangs on what kind of fix you want. if its your trail rig then that gets a certain repair. if its a daily driver then that may be another repair.
but ive used bondo and JB weld and they both came out the same. seriously not different at all.. its been about 7 years.
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Flipflopped and ready to rock
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helix66
Member
Reged: 07/09/01
Posts: 5821
Loc: Hermosa Beach, CA
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Cool, thanks Alex, I was just looking to educate myself on it.
It looks like whether it's fiberglass filler or JB weld it's a pita to stuff the holes and make it stay, welding metal or filler would be the right way but this rig is so rusty and I'm hoping that with the recession officially over that work will pick up and I can replace it within a year (fingers crossed).
I got some polyurethane sealant that dries firm and I'm just going to clean the metal well, use Ospho on it and fill the holes with the sealer and pop the rubber strip in and cal lit done...and hopefully not get wet when it rains again!
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Mr Reverse
"Jezebel's Slave"
Reged: 04/13/01
Posts: 16566
Loc: Roy, Utah, USA
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You can use some expanding foam like great stuff to fill in the voids. When it cures, you trim it off then use your body filler or JB weld to finish it off. However, I don't recall the construction of the roof at the windshield. I can't remember if it is a closed off area there or if it is open. I would hate to pump a lot of the expanding foam in there and have it push the headliner out.
I had a rust problem around the windshield of my Z, but I caught it before it ate through like yours Gregg. The glass guy pushed lightly on the windshield and it popped out with no problems. I then cleaned all the rust out and did the sealing and painting before the new windshield got installed. I do need to clean out the bottom of the rear fenders and rebuild the left one since it has rusted a good 4" hole in it. I hate bodywork.
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Madness does not always howl. Sometimes, it is the quiet voice saying, "Hey, is there room in your head for one more?"
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helix66
Member
Reged: 07/09/01
Posts: 5821
Loc: Hermosa Beach, CA
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I hate it too, mainly because I suck at it and also don't want to spend the time it takes to do it correctly. If I was planning on keeping this rig I'd definitely do it the right way, and be SASing it, but my frame is so rusted and the body has it's areas that stink too.
I'm wondering if I should even bother to replace that rubber strip at the top, and just use the polyurethane caulk to fill it.
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